Every time I peek into one of those big glass cases full of jewelry at an antique mall, I’m reminded how many incredible designers have slipped out of the public consciousness — and how much incredible stuff you can find if you just know what to look for.
As people downsize collections they’ve built over decades, thrift stores, estate sales, and antique malls are filling up with incredible jewelry — think hand-cast bronze, sterling silver, carved resin, semi-precious stones, and pieces made by artists and small studios rather than fast-fashion brands.
And a shocking amount of it is sitting in those case for just a few dollars because people don’t recognize the names!
Most of us know to look for Tiffany & Co. or David Yurman. But there is a lot of collectible costume and fine jewelry that was made by designers without the same name recognition.
In keeping with my roundups of Under-the-Radar brands to hunt for, today I’m featuring the under-the-radar jewelry designers I search for constantly.
I’ll round up more in future letters, so if you want the next list when it goes live, make sure you’re subscribed.
THE DESIGNER: Robert Lee Morris
Robert Lee Morris sterling silver cross pendant
Why It’s Worth Thrifting:
If there’s one name on this list to commit to memory, it’s Robert Lee Morris. He’s one of the most influential American jewelry designers of the last fifty years, helping pioneer the sculptural “art jewelry” movement in New York during the 1970s through his iconic gallery, ARTWEAR. His modernist, oversized pieces became favorites of the fashion world and appeared on the runways of designers including Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Karl Lagerfeld, Geoffrey Beene, Michael Kors, and Kansai Yamamoto.
1983 Verdigris block bracelet by Robert Lee Morris
He also designed collections for Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s old contemporary line, Elizabeth & Jame, and even created an officially licensed jewelry collection inspired by his longtime friend Andy Warhol.
RLM Studio ginkgo leaf pendant
*A note on the labels: You’ll also sometimes see pieces marked RLM Studio or RLM SOHO. RLM STUDIO was Robert Lee Morris’s more accessible diffusion line, sold through retailers including QVC and department stores. The designs were still created by Morris, but they were produced in larger quantities and often in base metals rather than sterling silver. His earlier signed sterling pieces generally command the strongest collector interest, but I never pass up an interesting RLM Studio piece if the design is good. RLM SOHO, meanwhile, was made for department stores like Dillard’s and is not really collectible (and usually available at a very affordable price point).
1989 Donna Karan belt with Robert Lee Morris buckle
Signature Characteristics:
Sculptural sterling silver or gold-tone metal
Organic, fluid forms
Oversized cuffs and collars
Hammered finishes
Search Terms:
“Robert Lee Morris sterling”
“RLM cuff”
“Robert Lee Morris necklace” or “pendant”
1986 Robert Lee Morris for Donna Karan necklace
Lots more Robert Lee Morris jewelry available here, for reference or shopping.
