One of my favorite things about shopping secondhand is that you can unlock a new world every time you make a discovery. A great jacket is a great jacket even if the name sewn into the lining is unfamiliar, of course, BUT: learning the name of the designer can lead you to a treasure trove of other great jackets.
For part three of this series of under-the-radar clothing brands, we’re delving into elaborately embellished sweaters and beautifully tailored designer clothing. There are pieces here for the person who wants to look quietly luxurious and the person who wants a small beaded garden growing across their torso. I support both!
As always, knowing the label is only part of the deal of secondhand shopping. Look at the fabric, the construction, the condition — and whether you actually want to wear the thing.
Happy shopping!
For more of my favorite under-the-radar brands to thrift, head here.
xx,
VC
THE BRAND: Koos Van Den Akker
silk midi colorblock dress, $88
Why It’s Worth Thrifting:
If you love Dries Van Noten, you’ll love Koos van den Akker. Both brands are expert-level pattern mixers, pairing things you would think would not make sense, like florals and plaids, or leopard and stripes.
What’s more — one inspired the other! Dries van Noten often cited Koos as an inspiration. The Dutch-born Koos also inspired other big-name designers like Nicolas Ghesquière. So there’s an argument to be made that many of our favorite brands today might not even exist were it not for the brilliance of Koos.
Koos van den Akker patterned jacket, $325 vs Dries van Noten patterned trench, $1,825
A little about the history here, because Koos had a serious design pedigree and worked as an apprentice at Christian Dior before launching his own label. His KOOS-brand collage-style sweaters became wildly popular in the 1980s, when Bill Cosby famously wore them on The Cosby Show. But of course, he went on to be known for other garments, as well — like all the dresses and jackets shown here.
What to Look For:
Jackets and coats combining several fabrics
Patchwork skirts and dresses
Contrasting borders, bands, and panels
Unexpected combinations of print and texture
Carefully finished seams where different fabrics meet
two-piece, prairie-style set, $192
Search Terms:
“Koos van den Akker vintage”
“Koos van den Akker patchwork jacket”
“Koos van den Akker collage”
“Koos vintage coat”
“Koos van den Akker skirt”
Try the full name first, then broaden to “Koos” to catch listings with shorter descriptions.
The really good stuff is below the paywall (including an incredible early 2000s brand that goes for $$$ online but is often hiding in the intimates section at the thrift store and one of my all-time fave novelty sweater brands, with a bunch of under-$100 options).
